Licata - citta' di mare
My first stop is Licata “Provincia di Agrigento”, my hometown, the most well-known and a dear place to me.
Where to start when talking about your hometown? I definitely have a sort of love/hate feeling about my hometown. Before getting there I think about how much I miss my family, and the food and I can’t wait to get stuck into a cannoli and a huge ball of arancine (yeah, mine it is female and ends with -e or -a if singular!), but (first the hate) then I get super stressed and frustrated when I get there and I see licatesi (people from Licata) parking in the middle of the street because they need to get a quick coffee and cornetto before going to work or a panino for their children before school time, or when another supermarket is being built 10 minutes walk from another one brand new too… not to mention the consumption of plastic in bars, restaurants and households (my family gets prepared when I come back as they know I don’t do plastic!) and/or throwing bin-bags everywhere and at every time of the day. Why is there no respect for others and for the place they are living in? Of course I am generalising here, but damn that makes my hair white LOL.
But now for the love...All that stress and frustration is then lifted up with the wonderful food that I get to eat, the respect for its seasonality, the beauty of the sea, the smiles and warmth of people that when they love, they really do and it’s authenticity. There is no fake. It’s not a show and we definitely are an exuberant and full of life people with so much passion that’s hard to find anywhere else. And I can say that because I have been everywhere else…
When I arrive in Licata, the first stop I make after visiting both my grandmothers and family is definitely to have my brioscia cu tuppo ca ranita (= a traditional Sicilian brioche with granita) da Florio. With just €2.50 you can get yourself an entire meal of happiness. From traditional granita di limone, pistachio, almonds and chocolate, to the granita made with seasonal fruits and vegetables. It is incredibly delicious! Florio’s granita recipe is produced with less sugar than many other places both in Licata and in the whole of Sicily.
Then I go to La Pasticceria Lauria (it’s not my family one!) to have an amazing Arancina with pistachio, the white or the ragu’ one - oh gosh I would love one right now! And then follow my journey down to the harbour to grab a lemon and ginger herbal tea (to digest) with my friend overlooking the beautiful sailing boats before going back in town and order a whole pizza from Forno Antico. But if I want to eat another delicious pizza and have a great atmosphere while sitting around a long dining table, I choose Sarda Salata and its own outside area. Both pizzerias are using amazing flavours and ingredients - especially grani antichi (=ancient grains) with so much care.
There are various good restaurants in Licata - especially fish restaurants and that has to do with our geographical location and the fact that every week a lot of fresh fish arrives at Al Porto (= at the fishermen’s harbour) and it is distributed across the city. When I am in the city center, I like to eat at Gustibus, Curo’ Trattoria Palermitana, otherwise l’Oste ed il Sacrestano for a more gourmet food experience. For a much easier vibe, I choose Cantunera, La Drogheria for cocktails and aperitivo and A Fauzzeria (i.e.A Fauzza in Licatese way) for a pizza on the go and more just in the heart of Licata centre and close to the harbour.
If I would like an adventure outside the city, my first choice is Cala del Re, a private oasis at one of the most beautiful Licata coastal spots, Torre Santa Nicola, which during summer times you can visit to spend a great time at the beach or just to have a nice meal in the evenings. Truly amazing! Or Oasy Beach Restaurant which is both a pizzeria and fish restaurant.
Of course Licata is well recognised for La Madia Restaurant which people from all over the world come and visit as it’s our Michelin star restaurant. For take-aways and a nice aperitivo, there is a small grocery shop called Uovo di Seppia, always from the same owner.
Then there is no place like Aurora - deli and aperitivo spots. Before I go away from Licata, I tend to pack my luggage (as do all my friends when they come and visit) all of its goodness; from cheeses to Sicilian goods, from ice-cream cakes to the best panino in town for a beach day.
Licata is just a living theatre, and you can witness the performance of its living actors just by taking a long stroll across the city, getting lost while talking with the independent small shops and food owners and tasting incredibly delicious food. Of course, be wary, that the licatesi will do absolutely anything to make you eat more and be chuffed and stuffed, that’s their way to express gratitude and welcome you in their city.
For places to visit:
U Cuntastorie shop - for a traditional evening fueled with stories and music local to Sicily
All the wonderful beaches of La Rocca and Pisciotto
From Palazzo di Citta’ head to Castel Sant’Angelo and mountain view down to Mollarella beach
The historical centre and A Marina, fishermen village and the oldest area of Licata
For accommodation, there is Airbnb or just contact me for suggestions from locals.
